I’m sitting in my study staring out of the window and trying to think of the next sentence. There are crows out on the road and in the playground opposite. I’m just thinking what on earth can crows find to eat over there when I hear the familiar cry of alarm from the male blackbird. A few moments later that fledgling flutters to the ground near a climbing frame.
‘Stupid bird,’ I think. ‘Why don’t you run into the thorn bushes near bye?’
But it’s not that clever and after one half hearted dodge, the crows have it. The blackbird flies around making a racket but is not brave enough to attack the group, who fight over the dying fledgling. A teenage boy passes through the playground eyes straight ahead, oblivious to the drama going on right next to him. One crow makes to fly off, but is intercepted and drops its half eaten lunch. The next thing that I see is the cat next door running out of the playground with the remains in it’s mouth. All that effort by the blackbirds just to provide lunch for a crow and a cat.
June was busy; I was away a lot and returned home after a long weekend to find that a pair of blackbirds had almost completed building a late nest in the grapevine, right above my back door. The female was sitting in the nest but flew out when I came out the door. I took a quick look through the landing window just above the nest and noted there were no eggs yet. I hoped that my reappearance would discourage the pair from their task. I imagined that they had already nested earlier and noted that this effort was very late in the season.
They must have decided that I was worth the risk and continued to build so when I returned after yet another weekend away, the female was sitting on four eggs. I was quite cross and concerned for them as I’d planned a party in my very small garden mid July and felt sure that the noise and activity would scare them away. I decided to carry on as normal, sitting in my garden courtyard, hanging out washing and gardening. I reflected that this choice of location might not be the brightest, but then again my presence could deter predators. How could they know that? Had they somehow learned that humans are OK to be around? Not taking any risk, the bird remained motionless if I was about, believing in her camouflage. She would only leave or return to the nest, beautifully hidden by the vine leaves, if she was convinced that I or any other creature was not looking. You might wonder what the male was doing all this time. He didn’t seem much in evidence, but the moment a couple of magpies flew into sight, he was on duty, distracting them away from the area by confronting them and pretending that his nest was several gardens away. Cleverly he would raise the alarm and take the drama well out of site of my grapevine.
The party date approached and rain threatened. I decided to erect a gazebo, which would take up most of the courtyard and come within inches of the nest. I did it in stages putting up the frame the day before. She sat on the nest all the way through it, so encouraged, I carefully pulled on the covering the following morning. She flew out of the nest but once the top was on and I could no longer be seen from above, she returned. It rained hard, clearing up in time for my guests. I didn’t tell anyone the blackbirds were nesting. Human beings are inherently inquisitive and children might have insisted on looking in the nest. While we had been partying away under the canopy, things had been happening above. When I dismantled the gazebo the following day, there were four chicks in the nest. Mum wasn’t sitting and there was a very faint sound of cheeping. Both
birds were alternating their visits, bringing food to the youngsters, trying to work out which ones needed feeding next. I didn’t expect all four chicks to survive and some of them looked overheated. The temperatures at this time of year on a South West facing wall were exhausting.
A week later, I discovered one of the chicks dead by the back step. A quick look, while the mother was away, first checking no one was looking, showed that only two chicks remained. There were no clues to the fate of number four. I removed the dead chick to the other side of the house so that scavengers would not come sniffing and continued to come and go alongside my bird family. Some days later one of the chicks was sitting on the edge of the nest peering at me through the vine leaves. Meanwhile the grapes are ripening and it’s time to expose them to sunshine by removing some foliage. This turned out to be a bad idea as the chick decided to flee the nest, fluttering ineffectually down to ground level and taking refuge at the base of an ivy-clad wall, behind a small statue of a naked woman. Whatever sound the young bird emitted in this exercise produced parental alarm several gardens away. Checking for chick number two revealed that the frightened chick was the last one left of the four originals.
I’m generally a Darwinian, but as I’d caused the chick to jump out of the nest, I felt duty bound to put it back, which I achieved by getting out the ladder, throwing a cloth over the chick and returning it to the nest and carefully removing the cloth. Feeding resumed and for the next few days the fledgling could be heard calling discreetly to be fed and exercising its wings.
The next thing I know, the fledgling has jumped out of the nest again and is perched on the handlebar of my bicycle in full view of any predators.
‘Stupid bird,’ I muttered, and chased it round the courtyard with the cloth.
Its next excursion found it perched on the lower branches of the honeysuckle.
‘That’s a bit more sensible,’ I told it. Young Blackbird was hidden under the canopy and high enough off the ground to give the neighbourhood cat a challenge. Dad seemed to be the main feeder now and the next day I spotted the youngster away out of my courtyard on a high wall between me and next door. Then it was gone. I hope it makes it and I can now attend to my grapes.
He asks questions but offers no answers, prompting me to join the debate bringing the personal into reasons for Pride. Why do we march and what are we proud of?
I very well remember being young, vetting partners for their left wing credentials and thinking we could change the world. Thank goodness there are still those who believe that. However, I come from a time and place where homosexuality was illegal and I’m amazed that we have come so far in my lifetime. I remember my first pride in the late 80’s, walking over Westminster Bridge nervously holding hands with my boyfriend. It was the only day of the year when we felt bold enough to do this. It was thrilling, a seemingly defiant act, which in retrospect seems insignificant. Yes, we speculated about the cameras on helicopters identifying us later – part of the paranoia we’d been programmed into but there was a feeling of empowerment (probably imagined) much like my experience marching against the Vietnam War in the 70s.
Did it make a difference? I believe so, but not necessarily in the ways you might expect. The sight of Lesbians and Gay men visible to the public and media (The Bi came later, followed by Trans and now Queer – where will it end?) caused derision, hate and laughter from media and onlookers but it gave us confidence to be ‘Out’ to friends and family, the workplace was to come later. So over the years people got used to the fact that we exist. In what then seemed like an achingly slow journey, acceptance grew to where we are now. Lemmey cites Stonewall as a pivotal moment in our history, and I recommend Martin Duberman’s book Stonewall – an account of the gay struggle for liberation in the US. However, the drag queens at the Stonewall Inn weren’t part of a political organisation; they were just pissed off and pushed to the edge by the Cops. They unwittingly started a revolution. That’s how revolutions usually begin and the intellectuals quickly move in to invent the ideology. It’s a very slow revolution and continues with advances and retreats.
The difficulty for intellectuals such as Lemmey, is that we are not a politically or sociologically homogenous group. We are not, like miners or teachers but can be found in all cultural, class and political groups. I used to think it inconceivable that any gay man could vote conservative. I didn’t know any and assumed that if they did exist, were sheltering in ‘The Closet’. Now, with more experience, and the predominance of centre-ground politics, I know and dare I say, like a number of Tory gay men. At the other end of the political spectrum I count a Marxist as a dear friend. That LGBT people inhabit such a wide spectrum is, I believe, a strength in our continuing struggle to be visible to all sections of society. Our goal must be for our sexuality to be unremarkable to everyone.
So, the representation of workers from banks, supermarkets the Civil Service and other corporations in this year’s pride is surely a good step in spreading the ‘Some people are gay – get over it’ campaign and taking the revolution to new levels. Back in the eighties Pride struggled for sponsorship (I vividly remember Ian McKellen then running around rattling a bucket desperately trying to get Pride revellers to donate) and was always going broke or having funds embezzled. That companies are now willing to sponsor indicates a new tolerance for their employees, many of whom would have been sacked in the past. Hopefully there is also a more responsible Pride management, because sponsors need looking after.
Does all this mean that the battle is won? By no means, vigilance and visibility will always be needed. As I marched with Out to Swim this year being hotly pursued by Front Runners, I overheard one elderly man say to another –
‘God help us, there’s even a running group.’
While such dinosaurs exist, we need to be vigilant. A few weeks ago two young men were queer bashed by sixteen-year-olds in Whitechapel, not far from where I live. Prejudice is also alive and growing in the young – we need to be vigilant and have pride in our sexuality and diversity.
I’ve been cycling around London since I arrived here in 1978. There were then only a handful of cyclists and no cycle lanes. People regarded us as insane to risk our lives in the traffic and our health in the pollution. However, cyclists then, as now, were able to use the Bus Lanes which provided some degree of safety. I don’t know if cycle awareness was included in bus driver training but I never had any problems with busses or taxis. I’d been a car driver since the age of 15 and this helped as I knew the basic road code, stopping at red lights, doing clear hand signals and allowing pedestrians to cross on Pedestrian Crossings. I’d had a job which involved driving a hire car around London and somewhere on a roundabout on the South Circular in rush hour on a winter’s evening I was overtaken on the inside by a huge lorry, which then drove across the front of the car. After that I was pretty careful cycling around places like Hammersmith Broadway or Hyde Park corner which in those days were uncontrolled by traffic lights. The pollution problem, I disregarded as these particles spread out to cover the city uniformly (that’s a law of Physics) so just living in London means you’re breathing it in.
In the early eighties, I moved from Hammersmith to Bow in Tower Hamlets and would regularly cycle though Whitechapel to the Kings Road, Chelsea, though the City and along the Victoria Embankment. The Mile End and Whitechapel roads were pretty challenging in terms of traffic, dust and rubbish from the market. At least on the Embankment there was grand architecture to look at. During this period I developed a strategy of coming forward at red lights so I could get ahead. The initial acceleration from a bicycle is far greater than any motor vehicle and you could easily clear the space to allow them to pass later. I also would make eye contact with drivers, particularly on roundabouts and prepare to take evasive action if they seemed unaware of me.
Fifteen years later, I moved to Hackney and my route into the West End took me though Clerkenwell or Angel and I still get a thrill from freewheeling down the Bus Lane in Pentonville Road to Kings Cross. In all that time I was only knocked off my bike twice. Once near Old Street, as I stopped for a light, a car drove slowly into the back of me and in a quiet street in Hackney on a rainy day, a tradesman, who had been resting in his van, decided to open his door just as I went past. Luckily there was no other traffic to run me over as I slid across the road. ‘What the f… do you think your f…ing side mirror is f…ing for?’ I screamed. The third incident, earlier this year, was in Cornhill on a dark wet evening. A car with no lights on and parked on a double yellow line opened the driver’s door and I went flying for the second time – the car owner was traumatised. Wearily, I said, ‘It would have been good to look in your side mirror.’ There have been numerous times when I’ve had to break suddenly due to a car overtaking me then immediately turning left. Sometimes it’s too late and I’ve found myself also turning left to avoid being run over. This happened to me only today, thus prompting me to blog about cycling, something I’ve been intending to do for months.
Now twenty-five years later I’ve moved back to Tower Hamlets – Stepney Green, just off the Mile End Road. So what’s changed? For a start there are thousands more cyclists, particularly commuters. They flood into and out of the City, West End and Docklands during rush-hour in an aggressive frenzy. I don’t often cycle at these times, but when I do, it’s almost as bad as taking on an HGV. We have high visibility clothing which has, thanks to the success of British Cycling as an Olympic Sport, become ‘designed’ with helmets to match. In the Olympic summer of 2012 I cycled around London with great inspiration, but was disappointed that few took advantage of the cycle park.
We have flashing lights with batteries which last months rather than weeks and tyres which are less susceptible to punctures and we have cycle lanes. A few, like the one through Bloomsbury have been around since the Ken Livingston days, others, painted Tory Blue by Boris are new. I’ve discovered that Super Highway 3 will take me along Cable Street to Tower Bridge on a dedicated lane in fifteen minutes. It’s brilliant. But it can be crowed with overtaking and failure to give way when required or to stop. I recently saw a woman cyclist collide with a pedestrian on a crossing. Then there are the red lights, which demand a special mention, later. To the north of me is Super Highway 2 which runs along Mile End Road to Aldgate. Yes it’s the same road I cycled on twenty-five years ago. It has the same traffic and dust and markets, there’s just a blue strip painted on the inside of the bus lane so you still have to negotiate the traffic. I cycle down this route often and enviously look at the wide deserted pavements on either side of the road which could be dedicated to us. It all narrows down along the Bow Road and rather than negotiate the tricky Bow roundabout (site of a recent death) I always go up and over the flyover – there’s nothing to say I can’t and it’s safer.
Someone has at last noticed the difference in cycle and vehicle acceleration and put in the cycle zones at lights and intersections. These are fantastic, provided motorists pay attention. That’s the point of them; if they illegally stop in this zone, they are delayed while we pull ahead and clear their way. Buses and taxis are guilty of this as well and can all be fined.
The other thing I’ve noticed with the burgeoning of the cycle population is ignorance of the Road Code, arrogance (cycles always have the right of way – even if they don’t) and plain wilfulness or risk-taking. As the holder of a drivers’ license, I can get points for infringements on my cycle, so I’m happy to stop at red lights while all and sundry ignore them completely or cross on the pedestrian green man dodging the walkers as they go. The women are just as prone to this as the men and it’s quite usual for a nice middle class girl with a wicker basket on the front of her ‘ladies bike’ to sail by without a care looking neither left or right. Periodically the police set up traps but not often enough.
Finally, there’s the issue of signalling. Cyclists, I believe need to give clear signals of their intention to turn left or right, and If you’re wearing a bright yellow jacket, all the better. None of this one finger pointing right at hip level, but a whole arm horizontal from the shoulder, telling everyone ‘I am a cyclist and this is where I’m going.’ I also think that the road code should be altered so that motor vehicles must indicate intention to turn left as well as right, in good time and including waiting at lights. When I sat my test, signalling was only recommended when necessary – whatever that meant. I’ve often pulled up to the left of a car which is not indicating and I assume it’s going straight ahead, only to be cut up when they turn left. If a waiting car is indicating left, I can pull up on their right and go ahead or turn right. This, I believe would improve our safety even more.
I’m constantly astonished that there aren’t more fatalities, particularly on the Boris Bikes and notice that motorists are much more wary of cyclists than they used to be. Cycling in London is so much better than in 1978.
Fellow writer, Canadian Ian Stewart (Vancouver) has just finished reading Twenty-Two Eighty-Four. Throughout his read hes been sending me notes and observations about his experience. Its interesting to look at his intellectual and literary reaction to the story and its societal setting in the future, to compare it with where we are now in the world and what needs to be done.
From Ian:-
I’m really liking the role of the womyn (sic) I’m also gladded with the normalisation of sexualities I think we’re at a window of opportunity to voicing these views, hitherto so fiendishly suppressed, and I feel that strong work of this nature — beyond being timely and highly current — might even see-away the artificiality of imposed homophobia in a more lasting fashion than we’d hope.
Back to your Twenty-Two Eighty-Four, which — yay! — is to my mind continuing excellently as before. I liked very much the characterful and evocative transit to Istanbul, where I found the societal fronting of men within this further ‘Eastern’ matriarchal world intriguing and thought-provoking. I liked the subsequent chapter in Norfolk and the party scene was interesting in bringing the various character streams together. I also like the government interventions on Pitto’s work-life, as well as the descriptions of his earning tasks. Reaf, also, is developing nicely, with a concomitant leitmotif I find highly worthy to be got into print, around the father-son advice and mentoring — which is novel in queer literature, to me, anyways, in the explicit flagging of such support, especially within this underlying or hovering context of homosexuality (so well done there!).
The Norfolk women’s welcoming-in Hebe and Pitto is well handled, and Quercus’ saying “Kara?” on seeing her clone Hebe is nicely effective. Im liking the — again, unexpected — father and son webbed feet at the end (is there more to that than just a shared quirk of genetic expression? I like that we’ve only heard of their hot bodily perfection thereunto): I took all the genetics stuff at face value, accepting your authorial guidance, knowing too little on the subject.
When the — interesting and cool — Nolly character says about the planet being saved by the HFV I spontaneously clicked my palate with my tongue and softly said “Wow” aloud. Moved to thus physically, bodily reacting, with surprise; understanding; my interest honed; absolute delight with your authorial accomplishment; and a penny-dropping ‘aha!’ at this key new take on the information we’d had hitherto presented to us otherwise; unexpectedly, alternatively, delivered from a reliable and clued-in source, and immediately, effectively contrasted by Kara’s ‘eco-nut’ thoughts.
Indeed, through this whole closing situational Kara’s outlook is a powerful contributor, I very much liked the comic scramble to find a means to print the documents she subsequently showed to Nolly. I also like the clarification that comes-about via Kara in these concluding scenes, as to the construction of this matriarchal societal structure having been a concerted move to reorganise people from the faulty destructiveness they’ve associated with the male outlook – nice to have that re-adjustment of view coming from Establishment Kara at the end of the novel.
So, overall, delighted, glad to have read it, and — the human mind virus — I’m certain that imagery and ideas from this highly informed and well thought-out, entertaining and sexy exposition around the societal and structural planetary challenges facing us will stick with me, and no doubt shape my views and thinking on these matters. So, well done, Chris, at your fine novel’s timely contribution. You’ve particularly got a solid grip on the manners and issues of interest to both men and women — (I was at a Vancouver reading by Tennessee Williams in my teens, where he said in answer to a comment on that, that he had, himself, “a certain duality of gender”) — which unusual comprehension should decidedly stand you in good stead with readers of either sex.
Im thrilled that it keeps-on excellently through to its conclusion. What a tremendous accomplishment!
Twenty-Two Eighty-Four can be purchased from Paradise Press in paperback or electronic formats. You can also read part of chapter 1 on this site.
We few, we merry band of men are crossing (under) the channel to struggle for glory at Tounoi International de Paris (TIP). Anyway, that’s how it seems on the Friday when Michael Webster & I arrive to glorious sunshine. Both of us have been to Paris many times, so there’s no need to rush around seeing everything like tourists. We take a leisurely walk from our Hotel at République down to the Sein, saying hello to Notre Dame where we admire her flying buttresses and newly scrubbed up front. Hotel De Ville is covered in Union Jacks to welcome Queen Elizabeth of the United Kingdom. She’s visiting for the D day anniversary and we just have to stop for a photo.
We head up to the TIP Village in the Marai to register. There’s a lot of milling around and getting crossed off various lists, finally at the swimming desk where we get our welcome bags full of promotional literature, one condom & lube plus a pink wrist band to prove we’ve paid to get into the party and a blue wrist band for this event. No one else from Out To Swim is around but Michael spots a woman involved in the Gay Games when he was sailing & I run into Christophe from our Prague relay team. It’s all a bit of a non event but we buy a beer and stand about, clarify the warm-up and start times for tomorrow, then wander down some side streets in search of some French food.
There’s the usual issue with breakfast, eating early enough before a race so we’re the first customers. Getting to Piscine George Vallery is easy and quick on the Metro so I’m one of the first to warm up. There hasn’t been any start sheets sent out so until they are posted up on the wall, we are unaware that Bob McInnes has entered which brings our swimming team up to six. First up for me is the 800 metres freestyle which, in a 25 metre pool means 32 lengths and a lot of counting. There are flip charts with the number of lengths remaining and I’m asked if I have someone to flip my chart. No. But the very nice woman who has been flipping for the previous swimmer offers to flip for me. Phew! I can’t quite believe my time of 14 minutes 07 seconds on the board, but it is correct. I’ve cut my personal best by 16 seconds and I’m thrilled.
The Out To Swim Syncro team arrive and they compete for two hours while we have lunch and cheer them on. By the end of the day, we’ve all won medals. I’m disqualified in the 100 metres Backstroke for an incorrect turn so I miss out on a second gold but our 4 x 50m Freestyle relay team comes second. It’s been unclear if relay entries count towards our five individual events. It turns out, that they don’t so that’s a relief. We are all exhausted at the end of it, but stay to cheer on the Syncro team in their second session.
Abraham is originally from the Philippines, lived in London for a while and swam with Michael. He’s come to watch, and we go off in search of dinner, conversation and flirtatious waiters. The rest of the evening goes quickly and soon it’s time for sleep and recovery. There’s no rush for breakfast on Sunday as the programme starts with the 1500m and that will take several hours. In the event we arrive just as the womens’ heat is ending and are able to cheer on David D. He swam so well yesterday and now he wins the last and fastest heat, turning in a personal best – amazing. Robert Jolly, who swims for Paris Aquatique part of the year and in Australia for the rest, remembers me from Antwerp. He’s in Michael’s age group and is very fast. Likewise I’ve got a man from Aqua Homo just turned 60 and he’s winning all the gold medals in my events today. We are, however content with silver medals as we’ve turned in some very good times. Another personal best for me in the 200m back stroke and a nifty 100m freestyle. David D wins a medal in breaststroke (which he doesn’t like) and Jerome does likewise in his Butterfly race, in which he swallows water and just about drowns. In the lunch break, with the roof of the pool open, the attractive and youthful Paris Aquatique team decorate this lovely pool by sunbathing on floats. We get to know Robert Jolly, who like his name is a laugh. There’s some lovely swimming to watch and learn from, tumble-turns to admire and strugglers to applaud for just having a go. Oh, and I should mention the physiques – Pecs, abs, bums all in perfect shape.
Finally, it’s the medley relay which, after a slight reshuffle of personnel, we win gold and Philippe is beside himself with joy. Champagne is handed out to all, so that Michael & I have to go back to the hotel and sleep it off before dinner and going on to the party, which begins at 10pm. As we walk from restaurant to party venue, the sky is alive with lightning in the distance. There’s an almighty queue when we get there, right around the block so we almost give up as we are both unaccustomed to queuing for clubs these days. It moves quite quickly though and we are given a drink ticket and fight our way into a large sweaty room packed solid with bodies. The show has been delayed so that we can all get in and when it does start, we can’t see or hear very well as there are too many people and they are talking and shouting above the performers. It’s all a bit of a disaster and we are about to go when we run into the OTS water polo guys. They’ve brought 4 teams and one of them came fourth. There’s talk of going to another bar but we’ve had enough for one day and walk back to République via Bastille. One metro stop away, the heavens open with hail-stones and we take shelter under an awning. In a gap, we scuttle into the Metro and by the time we get to République, it’s all over and much cooler.
We can hardly move our bodies to get out of bed the next morning and only just make breakfast. We’ve now got over an hour to walk through the Ile De la Cité, along the Left Bank, take a very short turn in the Tuileries then walking in glorious sunshine through the centre of the Louvre en route to Brunch in the Marais. This last event is much more manageable and we sit down under a canopy in a cool courtyard to be served a great meal. We’re joined by a Parisien squash player so Michael gets an opportunity to practice his French conversation. There are some basketball players from Berlin who are joined by a team mate, originally from Israel. He’s a dancer/choreographer and is very entertaining. His German isn’t that good so we all end up speaking English. Patrick (one of the swimming officials) joins. He’s Canadian but has worked here as a translator for 40 years. Two of the Germans have to go and are replaced by another Canadian/Israeli who lives in London. The conversation is excellent and varied and we’ve forgotten the disaster of a party last night.
It seems that these European sporting meets always have a Brunch on the day after and Ive signed up for it.
The Pavilion Grébovka is set in an attractive park and looks like a gingerbread house basking in the sunshine. I meet up with the three French Guys and proceed to work our way through a feast. Everything is good except the coffee. Theres an offer of a free walking tour around Praha in the afternoon so I have to hang around for this to begin. Pavel is a gay professional tour guide and he promises a somewhat subversive view of things. He wants to show us the history of the Czech Republic and its relationship with neighbours, the rest of the world and homosexuality. There are 10-12 guys on the tour some of them are from Germany, one guy from Austria, a local gay couple (the younger one comes from Slovakia) and the masseur who is from Prague but now lives in Israel.
We begin in Wenceslas Square, which is more of a boulevard sweeping down from the Museum towards the Old Town Square. Pavel tells us this is where, in the past, you could pick up a guy for sex. We see a memorial to Jan Palach a young student who set himself alight in protest at the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968 see: http://www.radio.cz/en/section/czechs/jan-palach-the-student-whose-self-immolation-still-haunts-czechs-today
Pavel shows us the contrast between a Soviet designed building and those of a more elegant era. Time is short as some of the party have to leave. They are catching a train and though we dont have time to go to the station we are told about the Kinder Transport bronze statues which are companions to those at Liverpool Street Station in London. Theres also a statue of a Czech kissing a Soviet Soldier which Pavel thinks is very homo erotic, supposedly to show gratitude for being saved. From what is not clear. For the benefit of the Slovakian, Pavel tells us that Slovakia collaborated with the Nazis by handing over their Jews. Prague was apparently one of the first cities in Europe to welcome Jews and consequently there is evidence still of a once thriving community and you can still see the Orthodox on the streets. Everywhere on buildings there are the names of the streets and district we are in. The old ones (germanised) have not been taken down and co-exist with modern Czech versions. To understand all this we have to do some history and as we are standing in Wenceslas Square under the statue of St Vaclav this is a good place to start with the story of Bohemia. There is a very complicated theory of how the word Bohemian came in to being, involving the Roma, who were originally from India via Bohemia and when asked (in France) where they came from the answer was Bohemia, because thats where they were last. We get the story of protestant Bohemia being subsumed into the Hapsburg Empire, returning to Catholicism and being forced to speak German. This is to be a running gag for the benefit of the Austrian and Germans.
They take it all in good part as we make our way to the Castle area on the other side of the river. Here we enter fabulous public gardens around the parliament buildings. The Castle where the president lives is above us as is the Cathedral. The President is allegedly an alcoholic and has been given this job to keep him out of trouble while the Prime minister gets on with the work. The President is anti gay and has also been on record saying that everyone should smoke and drink like him so that people will die younger and save the pension funds. I think that will only work if people have to pay for their healthcare.
We come down to the river to see a great view of the Charles Bridge and Old City.
But before we cross there are Pissing statues by David ?ern?. The Czechs are well know for taking the piss out of themselves and here, literally, are two men pissing on a map of their country.
There are more memorials to the revolution. Theres the John Lennon Pub unaccountably sitting in a quiet street. Lennon was never in Prague or the Czech Republic, but the Beatles songs greatly influenced the young and as their music was banned, records were smuggled in wearing Mozart dust jackets. In 1980 anticommunists painted Imagine on a nearby convent wall opposite the French Embassy. It was removed immediately but the wall remained a focus of dissident graffiti and remains ever changing today.
We cross the Charles Bridge noting the location of a Mission Impossible scene and looking at the propaganda statues on the bridge. In particular there is a plaque showing the martyrdom of St John. In 1393 Queen Sophias confessor refused to divulge her secrets and was killed by order of the king. Its supposed to be good luck to touch it. Various bits of brass have been kept looking clean by the constant touching. Pavel thinks that the stories change from time to time so that different parts of the brasses can be cleaned by the tourists.
By this time we have lost most of the party who have had to catch trains or go to the After Party. On the bridge, Pavel points out the Rudolfinum, named after the Hapsburg prince Rudolph who carried out a suicide pact with his lover at Mayerling. This music auditorium was used by the Germans in the war and the story goes that Hitler attended a concert there. He demanded that the statue of Jewish composer Mendelssohn be taken down. The staff had no idea which statue to remove and in the end they decided on the one with the largest nose which turned out to be Wagner. We turn right over the bridge to take a brief look at the National Theatre but the real prize is the Theatre where Václav Havel worked as a stage hand.
We wander around the streets looking at insignias on the businesses, all the while noting the German and Czech versions of street signs. We pass the Gay sauna next to a church and now there are only three of us who eat at a traditional Czech restaurant. The beer is as usual excellent and the meal, which arrives at speed, is tasty and cheap. I have to leave now if Im to make the evening concert at St Nicholas in the Old Town Square. The ensemble is comprised of four violins, a viola, cello and double bass. Theres a trumpeter and a Mezzo soprano who come in and out throughout the programme which last an hour. Mozart, Bach, Handel, Franck and Vivaldi are on the programme. I realise its a mixture of what can be achieved with the forces available and what the popular tunes are. The audience are all tourists from all over the world. Some applaud between movements but it doesnt matter and the artists are gracious.
Ive an early flight in the morning and decide to take the hotel car so theres no time for breakfast. Its German Wings on the way home. They are more relaxed and comfortable than Ryan Air but I could have done without the long stop in Köln, where I have breakfast and buy Swiss chocolate from the duty free at much the same price as Sainsburys.
Saturday dawns cold and bleak. Swimming is part of the International LGBT games including Badminton, Bowling, Golf, Squash, Tennis, a trail run, table tennis and Volleyball. For me it’s the usual morning routine eating breakfast at least two hours before swimming. The journey to the pool is by metro and bus, it’s easier than anticipated. A bus arrives almost immediately and I think it prudent to ask if I’m going in the right direction. It’s no use trying to pronounce Czech words as several of the letters have completely different sounds and they just look at you blankly, so I point to the stop on the brochure I got from registration. Yes I’m on the right bus. There’s a screen showing the progress of the bus, the next stop and several beyond, so further reassurance arrives when my stop is indicated.
The pool is part of the Charles University but situated in an outlying suburb of communist era social housing. Blocks of apartments have been brightened up with coats of pain and replacement double glazed windows. I seem to be the only one arriving at the pool but down at the dressing rooms there are staff to hand me a padlock and key. There are a few others changing and I get talking to a French guy from Lyon. He swims with a straight club there. He knows of a couple who belong to Paris Aquatique and soon has me organised to make up a relay team which we call Out in Paris. Everyone seems to know of Out to Swim London so it’s good to be representing the club here even if I am the only one.
It’s a small meet and we’re allowed three entries plus relays. I’ve had the start list and noted that I’m the oldest competitor here today. I’m also the only one in my age group, so I’ll be checking that my times are respectable. I’ve been to New Zealand for a week and although I trained twice with Team Auckland Master Swimmers I fear all the flying may be a problem. It’s not and my times are OK. The competition starts at 11 and the events seem to fly by as apart from the 200 metres freestyle and the 100m Individual Medley, everything else is 50 metres. The commentator does everything in English and we are a bit surprised when he announces the 500 metres butterfly. He continues in this way, but no one does more than 50. There’s an hour for lunch with free food and coffee and the afternoon session is over by 3pm. Our relay team has done well but there are no age group categories for these so we don’t beat the sexy young Romanian team. We have the use of the pool to swim down for the rest of the afternoon and there is a free masseur provided and I decide to take advantage as its all been quite concentrated.
There’s time for an afternoon nap before venturing out to a local eatery which seems to be serving traditional Czech food. I’m shocked to find that people are smoking inside and the waiters take no notice of me so I have to really insist on getting a seat. I end up sharing a table with a young man and his girlfriend. She looks very bored and he casts me an occasional uneasy glance. It’s a steak house – though it’s pork, not beef. Mine comes in a creamy sauce with chips which are the best I’ve ever tasted. The side dish of vegetables is green beans and baby carrots – very salty and from the freezer. It all gets washed down with the usual excellent local beer.
I’m off to the Rainbow Spring Party by tram. Again, it all seems complicated as the No 9 (because of road works) has become the No 29 but I’ve got instructions from the hotel concierge and all is well. I’m going to watch the Gay Theatre which precedes the party in the icy cold warehouse venue. Divadlo-Leti is presenting what the postcard says is Gay Theatre performed ‘in Czech with simultaneous interpreting into English’. It’s a play for one actor called After Frederick by Mattias Brunn a gay actor and playwright, written in 2007, so it’s a little bit dated. The protagonist falls in love with Frederick and has to come out to his Mum and Dad, both of whom are OK with that. The next hurdle is leaving home to move in with Frederick and all is well for two years until Frederick begins to act strangely. He’s HIV positive and so is our hero, who falls to pieces. Frederick commits suicide leaving the boy to pick up the pieces and carry on. So it’s quite grim. The staging is very Eastern European so that the floor is a checker board and the actor can only step on white squares of vinyl. If he wants to cross the stage, he must lay a trail of white squares to walk on. By the climax the white squares are everywhere leaving one mirror tile for reflection. Then in a frenzy the actor scrunches up the tiles and throws them into disarray. The scenery is doing the sub-text. I’m the only taker for the simultaneous translation, which has involved another actor behind a glass screen speaking the English version into my headphones. I can sort of hear both languages but it’s best to concentrate on the English and the actor doing it is good.
The warehouse venue is freezing and I watch the company dismantle the lighting rig and pack up the set whilst waiting for the party to begin. Various heat blasters have been deployed and I make the mistake of getting a red wine (which is terrible) instead of Czech beer (which is fabulous). My French colleagues arrive and we chat and shiver. The music is heavy and dull so by 11.30 I’m ready to catch the tram back to my hotel.
I have ten hours to get from Heathrow to Stanstead, time to go home, shower, have lunch, wash clothes, water plants and have a snooze. Ryan Air is slightly less stressed than it used to be now that there is seat allocation. We travellers still seem to have pavlovian conditioning to rush and queue. The airline likes to keep up the hysteria and has introduces a new threat – only the first ninety items of hand luggage can get into the cabin – the rest will be put in the hold. You have to admire their ruthless efficiency though. No sooner has the plane landed and passengers cleared but we are on and seated. There’s no time for cleaning of the aircraft and no time for safety instructions – they are printed on the back of the non-reclining seats. Steffano from Out to Swim is on this flight, but he’s coming to the games to play volleyball. We meet up again at an ATM in Prague Airport which doesn’t want to oblige. I go through customs and find my pre-ordered transport and a cash dispenser which works. I’ve splashed out on the Art Nouveau Palace Hotel, not wanting to repeat my budget experience in Amsterdam for Valentine’s weekend. There’s a cute young trainee on the desk who checks me in charmingly and I’m relieved that it’s all gone smoothly having left Auckland early on the 30th April and arrived in Prague late on the 1st May.
BBC weather has told me to expect rain, so it’s a surprise to find its sunny and warm on Friday. Five metres outside the Hotel, I turn back for my umbrella, just in case. Heading for the town square is always a good place to start and on my way there, stop to observe a fine Art Nouveau theatre – there is a Prague Spring Arts Festival on this weekend and already there are groups of tourists gathering around their tour guides. The Old Town Square has a tower and I can see people looking down from it. That, I decide is my first point of call – nothing like a bird’s eye view to get one’s bearings. The tower, with astrological clock is part of the Town Hall and it’s economical to get a ticket for both. At the top, all the major sights are pointed out on brass plaques in Czech and English. A plan is evolving and there’s time to visit a couple of churches on the square.
I fancy Our Lady before Tyn. It’s one of the oldest with dramatic turrets. There’s no obvious way in as restaurants have been built in front of the façade. I find a side entrance though a classical record shop and see immediately that the interior of the church appears to be mainly gothic in its design and construction with a towering nave but the addition of baroque ornamentation and guilt ruins a once fine piece of architecture. Now, I’m OK with baroque music but architecture and décor is tedious. It’s off to St Nicholas on a corner of the square. This is a true baroque building and works, if you’re into wedding cakes. It’s surprisingly small considering the high dome and has a chandelier too large for the space.
It’s time for the Town Hall Tour (in English) which is well worth it. The pragmatic authorities of mediaeval Prague purchased three houses in the centre of the old town and added a tower.
They’ve retained the individual characters of the houses so it doesn’t look much like a Town Hall. Our guide explains the functions of various rooms – an ex chapel sustained bomb damage in the war and has fine replacement stained glass windows.
A Court Room has statues of the Virgin Mary, St John the Baptist and other worthies to help the judges make the right decisions. Another room is done in Art Nouveau style – very common in this city – and is still used for government receptions. I didn’t know that the Czech Republic used to be known as Bohemia with monarchs such as Queen Ludmila and King Wenceslas (of carol fame) now treated as national saints. I once played Polixenes, the King of Bohemia in Shakespeare’s The Winter’s Tale, but the geography is all wrong in the play as there is no sea coast here and it’s certainly not near Sicillia.
Our tour takes us far underground in what seems like dungeons. Actually, they are the ancient streets of Praha, covered walkways and shops which have been built upon over the
centuries, raising the city higher to avoid the floods. The river Tava still floods so one can only imagine what devastation they caused down at this level. The Town Hall tower is famous for its Astrological clock and we emerge to row upon row of tourists looking at it and the Hall, many of them listening to their tour guides through earpieces.
The sun shines and it’s a warm day, bringing all the tourists into the streets. Praha is a city for walking in and it’s crowded. I vaguely wander in the direction of the Jewish quarter where there are numerous synagogues, a Jewish cemetery and museum, but the crowds are too great and I find my way to the river and walk upstream.
It’s a lovely sight looking across to the castle and cathedral on a hill surrounded by various palaces of government. The President lives on one of them and the Prime Minister (real power) in a villa set apart to one side. On top of a neighbouring hill is a replica of the top part of the Eiffel Tower. Apparently the Czechs liked the original in Paris but couldn’t afford the whole lot. Still, it looks like there will be a good view of the City.
I pass the Charles Bridge, but it is crowded with tourists so I make my way past the gilt crowned National Theatre , which is having its façade restored -onwards to see the Dancing House – otherwise known as Ginger and Fred. It’s the first new building in Paha city centre for fifty years. The Architect is Vlado Milvnic supported by Frank Gehry. The original building was owned by a Dutch company and this one was opened in 1992. Twelve years later it is still looking for tenants. The people of Praha hate it passionately but I think it’s great. With reference to neighbouring buildings it is
both elegant and amusing. There’s a good view across the river from the top and you can have a classy meal in the restaurant. Other floors are given over to modern art exhibitions – the current installations vary from good to poor – but worth a look.
I cross the river and begin to walk down the other side but it’s time for a late lunch and a tapas restaurant nestled on an island in the river presents itself. There’s only a handful off customers at this hour but that doesn’t prevent the service from being slow and surly. I order two dishes and the waitress says ‘Is that all?’ in such a way as to suggest that I’ve not ordered enough, but when they do come I’ve ordered plenty. The clear plastic sides of the restaurant are lowered, the sky darkens, it rains and the wind blows. I’m glad I brought the brolly. I get as far as the Charles Bridge and decide to call it a day. There are statues and brasses to rub for luck on the way across the bridge, trying all the time to prevent the umbrella from blowing out. Later, I venture out to the Old Square for a Czech feast as the menu describes it. Once again I’m sitting outside under heating with slow service and still feeling cold. In spite of this, it’s been a day of unexpected beauty. Everywhere you look in the old city of Praha, it’s pretty and elegant no wonder it’s so popular.
It is with some trepidation that I sign up for a weekend swim camp at Cobham Hall, Kent. Organised by my Out to Swim mates Lucille and Lizzie, it promises four swim sessions in over forty-eight hours. I like to swim three times a week leaving at least a day for my body to recover, repair and prepare for the next onslaught. At sixty-two I’m in the ‘yes’ to experience phase of life with a hefty NO on hand only if absolutely necessary.
I resort to Google Maps to look at the area and plan my travel arrangements. Sole Street seems to be the closest station and I plan to take my bike and cycle in a leisurely fashion up to the hall a few miles away. Taking a bike requires leaving London before 4pm, so with all the times and changes on a piece of paper, I set off. What could go wrong? I alter my plan and get on an earlier train at Peckham Rye which isn’t going to Bromley South so I spend several hours changing trains and heaving the pannier laden bike over bridges to different platforms – still arriving before most of the others.
Cobham Hall is stunning. Originating in the Elizabethan era, with a Georgian front stuck on, it was the seat of the Darnleys and is now an independent girls’ school started in the 60s. The leaves are not quite out on the trees as I cycle down the driveway past vast swathes of daffodils.
We are not accommodated in the main building but in Brooke House around the back. This is a 70s building opened by the then minister for Education and Science, Margaret Thatcher, but it is right next to the 25m swimming pool.
We’re divided into ‘Swim Camp’ and ‘Lessons’ groups, the latter comprised of ‘Ducklings’ (don’t ask) and ‘Development’. Our first session is 7.30 – 9.00pm with our coach for the weekend, Martin. The pool is in a sort of glass shed and has an ingenious plastic lining which solves the problem of leaky tiles. There’s a yellow hosepipe across each end as a marker for turning, but I can’t see well enough to tumble and when I do, in the cloudy water, end up in the next lane or crash into Emily who is leading. Eventually I get the hang of it and I become less of a hazard. The schedule has been dictated by head coach Michelle and this session includes a hefty kick set. I’m a bit surprised at the end as it hasn’t felt harder than our normal ninety minutes sessions at the Marshal Street pool, but my legs are cramping all over. I have to sit on the end of the pool for a minute until they stop convulsing so I can stand up and stagger back to Brooke House. We’ve all brought post swim food and I assemble a tuna salad. Gillian has brought fantastic scones and Michel, a delicious home made mackerel pâté. We’ve all been instructed by our leader, Lizzie, to bring cake, but the ‘Ducklings’ have covered up the cake so we won’t eat it until they finish their session at 10pm. There’s beer and some of us have brought wine so we all have a jolly time, but no midnight feasting as we’re all too tired and go to bed. I take a couple of Ibuprofen to help with the pain, but the bed is too narrow for a great sleep.
Saturday morning and it’s an hour long session before breakfast. I stock up with a banana and two cups of tea and am surprised to find the swim completely manageable, no cramps or pain in evidence. We later find out that the plan has been modified. I may get though this weekend after all. A quick nap follows (I’m old enough to nap when I feel like it) followed by a walk. Everyone else is doing a circuit training session in the gym lead by Lizzie, but I’m conserving energy for the two hour session in the afternoon. I’d seen what looked like a grand tree-lined approach on Google Maps and went of to explore, enjoy the daffodils and check out how far to the village pub.
The grand approach hasn’t really happened as the trees are far too young and there’s not really a drive way. By the time I get back, most people are relaxing and I join some of the women who are watching Alex and Emily playing tennis.
How can they have the energy to do that? Meals are in the old house and lunch is tasty pasta and baked potatoes. We’re all carbed up for the afternoon session, but first I have to walk it all off through the gardens and woods of the estate. The ‘Ducklings’ are first and we swim at 4 – 6pm. I’ve never done a two hour swim before, but Martin has it all planned and we are surprised how quickly it goes. Dinner is at 6.30 so it seems that we swim, eat, swim and eat. I have no inclination to walk or even cycle to the pub in the evening and in fact my head is in such a strange place and my body isn’t hurting so I deduce that I’m high on endorphin. Endorphins are related to Morphine and are produced by the body as a result of strenuous exercise. They work to counteract pain and also in older people, stimulate mental activity. That’s why I’m buzzing, I won’t need Ibuprofen tonight. The remains of the cake, beer and wine are consumed and I leave the hard core to play a game called ‘I’ve never done …’
Sunday morning before brunch is only an hour and I feel my shoulders about to give way on a pull set. I’ve had this body quite a long time and know what it can do, so time to just drop out of a couple of lengths. It’s been a great weekend and we’ve avoided lane rage in lane 3. Awards are given out at brunch – not quite sure what they are for, but Michael & I get a joint award, we think for being old and getting through it. Time to dash though as I’ve got a train to catch.
It’s now Tuesday and the endorphins are wearing off – need to get back to the pool.